Rath Yatra

The scorching sun had shone all day but the enthusiasm of the devotees wasn't dampened. Artificial showers had been arranged for by the authorities and was a welcome idea. The day was long and sunny but by evening rains drenched the state and washed away the dirt strewn all over. It wasn't only the streets that had been cleaned. Parched souls and tired minds sighed a relief. All this on a day when Lord Jagannath embarks on his yearly trip to Gundicha temple, the residence of his mausi.

It was the second time that I would have the chance of watching a spectacle that draws more than 5 lakh people to it each year. I have been told it went up to 8 lakhs this year. The people transcend barriers of caste, colour, state or country. The first time I went to watch the chariot roll on the 'Bada danda' (grand road) was more 17 years ago. It was a memory that had been lost somewhere in the years I toiled to make a home. I watched the ritual on TV year after year and told myself that I wasn't missing out on anything, (so I thought!!) This year, the proximity to Puri from the place where I live, had me wanting to go and witness the Rath yatra once again. It would turn out to be a battle of sorts was something I would discover later, but when I came to know I could actually go I was more than happy.

We were among the priviliged lot (ahem!!) and got a backdoor entry into the temple. It wasn't the first time that I had been to the temple and yet the excitement was writ all over my face. Lord Jagannath was to be carried to the chariots waiting for him at the temple gate and the crowds chanted his name. Cymbals, drums, conches all added to the religious fervour. I waded throught the sea of people, into the temple. Catching a glimpse of the deity was beyond imagination but I had to see it. So, I patiently sweated along with the other devotees. Men women children all stood there with folded hands. Some people were so overwhelmed that they could not stop their tears. Lord Balram and Shubhadra had been moved out and it was finally time for the Lord to be brought out. He emerged and I realised why people cried when they saw him..

He is undoubtedly the most well marketed God of the Hindu culture. Which other God could gather 8 lakh people each year!!? None.. The Pandas of Puri are the marketing managers who have very smartly created a halo around the temple. The government has tried various means to create a systematic infrastructure for the temple but all their pleas have been turned down by the ever so dominant Pandas( pandits). The temple continues to be the industry that employs people for cooking, performing religious functions, maintenance of the temple etc.. Foreigners and non hindus aren't allowed into the temple which tends to get embarassing at times, especially if it is a friend who is with you. The city of Puri can hardly be referred to as a city. It is only the road leading to the temple that has been widenend. The rest of the city can easily claim a name into the world heritage site list. The dusty lanes, the shady huts along the road, the broken bridges, and an overcrowded beach.. Any kind of development is only in the form of resorts along the beach. The ritual called 'Chera Pohra' 9cleaning the floor with a broom) is performed by the Puri Maharaja (maharaja!!) which shows how people refuse to move ahead from the past. The feaudalistic fire is fuelled in the name of tradition, something which needs to be done away with. Nandini Satpathy, ex Chief Minister had tried her best to do away with the system but the pandas revolted and the chariot wasn't made to move.

A temple that has withstood the ordeal of trying times and good and bad weathers under different regimes has very few of it's originality left. Two portions of the temple are now cemented and painted red and white. It is only the main dome that is left with the carvings. It's only a matter of time when the temple could crumble down. What then would be the plight of the residents of Puri dham. The state government needs to take a decisive and swift action and renovate the temple and systemize the entire temple activities to keep pace with the times. Religion should be a guide to living but when religion become life, life becomes tough. Those who live through it know it too well.

Better said than done! It would take a visionary leader from among the religious gurus who could work out a miacle and take the state away from the state of poverty that hovers over it. Lord Jagannath, is the only person who can do it, because he has the numbers (8 lakhs). each year, year after year, the numbers increase. He will come to the rescue, I do believe..